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Old 03-22-2008, 08:29 AM
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Default Small Creek by the Roadside

I took this photo in August 2006. It is a small stream by the road in South West Michigan.



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Old 03-22-2008, 10:15 AM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

I can't wait for summer
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Old 03-22-2008, 10:18 AM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

This looks like the creek by my old studio...

I cant wait for summer either.

Scott
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:07 AM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

You've asked on other threads for thoughts on post processing. I thought this image made a good opportunity to talk about contrast. I hope that's ok...

You have a nice shot here, but the image looks a little flat. Here are the levels in the photo and it's immediately apparent as to why:



Note the curve of the level histogram. At first glance, it's a nice "bell curve" and while it has some clipping, it's not bad. Let's take a closer look at the histogram, but first let me explain the mechanics of this graph first in case we have some readers that aren't familiar with it at all.

Levels Histogram Mechanics
Some pixels, like those in the bright areas of the water are almost pure white. Other pixels like those in the shadows near the water's edge are almost pure black. We could assign the amount of brightness in each pixel a number...from 0 (for totally black) to 255 (for totally white). So, a pixel in the shadow has a value of 0, while a pixel in the bright area of the water has a value of 255.

Even though the photo is color, you could imagine each pixel has having a brightness... not just those that look black and white. For example, much of the green in this photo is roughly in the middle of our brightness range. We could say it's around 127 in terms of the value scale. Some greens are brighter (closer to 255) than the exact middle and some are darker (closer to 0). If you look at the photo's overall brightness you should be able to see that more of the green is toward black than white. The brightness values in the center of the scale are called "midtones".

The height of each point along the histogram represents the number of pixels that have that brightness level. So, we can see that at the far right, very little of the photo is pure white. In the middle, we can see that a lot of the photo is midtone. At the far left, we can see that there is some black in the photo.

Closer Look at the Histogram
Here, I've added labels for what the histogram is telling us about the photograph.



Now, let's consider again what a "bell curve" means. It means that the majority of the pixels in the photograph are midtones...in other words, despite being varied in color, the majority of the photograph has very little difference in brightness. In other words, the image lacks contrast!

Increasing Contrast
There are many ways to increase contrast but the two most common are to use Levels or Curves.

Think of "Levels" as the ability to slide the graph to the right or left. You can push everything toward white to brighten the image. You can push everything toward black to make it darker. You can push on the midtones to focus your darker or lighter goals there. Ultimately levels doesn't change the shape of the histogram dramatically. Instead, it just "smooshes" or "stretches" it. Don't get me wrong here. Levels is a useful tool. Not every photo needs a dramatic change in contrast!

Think of "Curves" as the ability to remap any area of the histogram to another. We could take the range of "20 - 40" and make it "200 - 220" if we wanted. That would take dark areas of the photo and make them very bright. Not that that's a good thing, but the point is, curves can "smoosh", "stretch" or "remap" any part of the curve. Since it adds the ability to remap specific points, the histogram can look very different once it's done.

Back to the Photo!
Here is what I got after playing a bit with the Levels and Curves tools, I made all of my adjustments visually -- there is no ideal shape to the histogram curve that you should try to create. I also added more contrast to the scene than might be considered ideal since I wanted to emphasize contrast for this discussion.



Summary
There are three points I'd like to leave you with out of this entire post. If you remember nothing else other than these things, you'll be far ahead of most shooters. If your camera will display a histogram for you as you take each shot and you remember these points, you'll be even further ahead!

1) A "pile" of pixels at the extreme left or right edge is bad unless you have a lot of pure black or pure white in your scene.

2) A "pile" of pixels in the center with very little of the curve reaching either edge is generally an indication that the scene lacks contrast. Not always a bad thing -- and the good news is, this is an easy thing to fix in post.

3) Beyond that, there's no ideal shape to the histogram. It's all scene-dependent.

Anyway, that was a lot to type. This took me nearly an hour...hopefully, it's helped someone!
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:17 AM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

Well, it is helping me. Yesterday I was studying Curves and Levels. I practiced a Curve (but really did not get it). I need to do more. The Levels seems very easy to use (which is why I am thinking there is a better way). Your discussion on histograms is excellent and your tips on using the histogram on my camera is defintely something I will keep in mind. I understand the tips are "rules of thumb", but that is how I like to work for the most part.

I also appreciate the screenshots for demonstrating your points. And I have a better understanding now of Curves.

The original photo, which I thought looked great, was much improved after post-processing in CS3. I see your point about contrasts. I was trying to get more contrast and get the purple Heather? to pop. I will practice some more. Histograms are pretty intimidating at first but I want to understand them.

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Old 03-22-2008, 11:26 AM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

Thanks. Good Tutorial. Looks like you might have used Snagit. If so, you can also use its annotation tools to include arrows, highlighting, callouts, etc. to any screen shot. You can also use its FTP function to set up an automation of your capture. So when I press my capture button, it lets me choose the area, and then automatically adds the torn edge effect. I then add the callouts, resize to fit the post, and then use FTP output to send the image to my server. I can then construct a post an immediately add the photos to my post.
Keep up the good work!
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rfs
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Old 03-22-2008, 11:32 AM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

How about Autumn?



Cheers,
rfs
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Old 03-22-2008, 12:02 PM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

Yeah, I have used SnagIt for years -- but when I saw your torn edge effect as coming from SnagIt, I was surprised 'cause I didn't know it had edge effects. Turns out I was 4 versions behind, lol. I'll have to buy the new one if I want to keep it now.

Indian Summer, eh?
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Old 03-22-2008, 12:10 PM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

Chuck, Awesome tutorial. Thanks for posting it. I saw yesterday on another forum a discussion about levels and curves and the differences and no one that I recall explained it the way you did. This makes sense and should help a lot of beginners here.

Thanks again.

Scott
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Old 03-22-2008, 12:11 PM
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Default Re: Small Creek by the Roadside

Quote:
Originally Posted by r_fredrick_smith View Post
Thanks. Good Tutorial. Looks like you might have used Snagit. If so, you can also use its annotation tools to include arrows, highlighting, callouts, etc. to any screen shot. You can also use its FTP function to set up an automation of your capture. So when I press my capture button, it lets me choose the area, and then automatically adds the torn edge effect. I then add the callouts, resize to fit the post, and then use FTP output to send the image to my server. I can then construct a post an immediately add the photos to my post.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers,
rfs
After reading the post the other day that you mentioned this program in, I got it. Very cool program. Thanks for the tip
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